I am in the process of replacing the water pump impeller on my 76 X1/9 (1300 motor, no AC), and have run into a problem. I removed the four bolts holding the impeller, but it cannot be pulled out of the pump housing, due to the (non-removable) pulley hitting the chassis well before the impeller can be removed. I saw that I had to remove the pump housing along with the impeller. It is held on with four bolts, but the one in the lower left (7:00 position) cannot be reached with a socket or wrench. It appears that I would have to remove the entire exhaust manifold to get to it. What am I missing? I have several manuals for the car, and none of them mention having to do this.
Problem removing water pump housing
- Thread starter Ndtman
- Start date
Another option, remove the snail mount bolt
I am guessing you are looking at something like this:
Another forum member solved this issue by removing the snail mount bolt and jacking up the engine till the WP pulley cleared the frame rail.
Not a lot of detail, but it makes sense. Here is the thread:
http://www.network54.com/Forum/12159/message/1138408778/actually+got+it+done-
I am guessing you are looking at something like this:
Another forum member solved this issue by removing the snail mount bolt and jacking up the engine till the WP pulley cleared the frame rail.
Not a lot of detail, but it makes sense. Here is the thread:
http://www.network54.com/Forum/12159/message/1138408778/actually+got+it+done-
Black-Tooth
Tony Natoli
Sorry for your trouble here...
Its been over 12 years since I did this on mine... and for this very reason the car sat for 7 years prior.
Mine's a '79 and has an access panel from the rear trunk to the engine bay. I don't remember if I removed the exhaust manifold to get to the W/P housing, but I don't believe so... but what I'm suggesting is that at least for the future, you may wanna cut your self an access window.
Here is an example of the 79 and later... 80 FI and later are somewhat similar for this conversation.
It may not look like much in the photo... but believe me changing the alternator or intake/exhaust manifolds is a snap this way, as well as the water pump.
Here is a description of another home-made panel... but I would still suggest cutting the entire width as with the stock layout. Go here:
http://www.network54.com/Forum/1215...+Panel+-+How+to+cut+one+in+your+Series+I+X1-9
I would also suggest you do it now... as the effort to unbolt the snail mount and jack up the engine is about the same... and this will give you easy access for many future repairs as well.
Good luck and let us know how you do...
Its been over 12 years since I did this on mine... and for this very reason the car sat for 7 years prior.
Mine's a '79 and has an access panel from the rear trunk to the engine bay. I don't remember if I removed the exhaust manifold to get to the W/P housing, but I don't believe so... but what I'm suggesting is that at least for the future, you may wanna cut your self an access window.
Here is an example of the 79 and later... 80 FI and later are somewhat similar for this conversation.
It may not look like much in the photo... but believe me changing the alternator or intake/exhaust manifolds is a snap this way, as well as the water pump.
Here is a description of another home-made panel... but I would still suggest cutting the entire width as with the stock layout. Go here:
http://www.network54.com/Forum/1215...+Panel+-+How+to+cut+one+in+your+Series+I+X1-9
I would also suggest you do it now... as the effort to unbolt the snail mount and jack up the engine is about the same... and this will give you easy access for many future repairs as well.
Good luck and let us know how you do...
Dayton Tom
Tom Marcellino
I unbolted housing from block..
You have a tube as part of the housing runing over to the other end and connecting to thermostat housing via a 90-degree rubber elbow hose?
Unbolt housing and it will all flex enough to get the pump r/r....
You have a tube as part of the housing runing over to the other end and connecting to thermostat housing via a 90-degree rubber elbow hose?
Unbolt housing and it will all flex enough to get the pump r/r....
Mark Plaia
True Classic
You have run across a Flat Rate horror story.....
The Flat Rate manual lists 4 hours for a water pump change on a 1300 X1/9 for what is essentially a 45 minute job. The FR specifies removing the manifolds to get access to the one water pump housing bolt tucked up behind the exhaust manifold.
Back 25 years ago when I was wrenching on FIATs at FIAT Plus, we had a socket that was used for only one purpose. We carefully ground flats in a 3/8 drive, 13mm socket to be able to slip through the tight opening. The sides were quite thin and if over torqued would crack the socket. But use of that socket allowed us to quote the 45 minute job as a 45 minute job instead of 4 hours.
This was not a problem on the taller 1500 blocks.
Perhaps you could do something similar. :thumbsup:
Ciao,
The Flat Rate manual lists 4 hours for a water pump change on a 1300 X1/9 for what is essentially a 45 minute job. The FR specifies removing the manifolds to get access to the one water pump housing bolt tucked up behind the exhaust manifold.
Back 25 years ago when I was wrenching on FIATs at FIAT Plus, we had a socket that was used for only one purpose. We carefully ground flats in a 3/8 drive, 13mm socket to be able to slip through the tight opening. The sides were quite thin and if over torqued would crack the socket. But use of that socket allowed us to quote the 45 minute job as a 45 minute job instead of 4 hours.
This was not a problem on the taller 1500 blocks.
Perhaps you could do something similar. :thumbsup:
Ciao,
Thanks!
Thanks for all the help and good advice regarding my little problem. When I get back to it, I think I will try removing the snail bolt and jacking the engine up a bit, and remove the impeller that way.
BTW, a previous owner cut an access opening in my trunk, which helps immensely. I will probably enlarge it a bit, and fabricate a cover for it eventually.
Thanks for all the help and good advice regarding my little problem. When I get back to it, I think I will try removing the snail bolt and jacking the engine up a bit, and remove the impeller that way.
BTW, a previous owner cut an access opening in my trunk, which helps immensely. I will probably enlarge it a bit, and fabricate a cover for it eventually.
Black-Tooth
Tony Natoli
All good... Hopefully your troubles will subside a bit
We'll be here... Do send us fotos of your ride as well! Love to see them and see what others are doing with their cars...
We'll be here... Do send us fotos of your ride as well! Love to see them and see what others are doing with their cars...
I finally got the water pump housing off!
Yoo hoo! I followed the advice to grind down a 13 mm socket so that it would reach past the exhaust manifold to remove the last of the four housing bolts. It screwed out just fine, and I was able to remove the housing, replace the impeller, and put it all back together again. Thanks again for the great advice!
Jerry
Yoo hoo! I followed the advice to grind down a 13 mm socket so that it would reach past the exhaust manifold to remove the last of the four housing bolts. It screwed out just fine, and I was able to remove the housing, replace the impeller, and put it all back together again. Thanks again for the great advice!
Jerry
Mark Plaia
True Classic
Good job, Jerry!....
One of the advantages of the common pool of knowledge we have.:woot:
:woot:
Ciao,
One of the advantages of the common pool of knowledge we have.:woot:
:woot:
Ciao,
Rupunzell
Bernice Loui
EU specification bolt heads on M8 cap screws (bolts) are 13mm hex. Japan uses and some EU, use a 12mm hex head on M8 bolts. They are the same thread pitch of 1.25mm.
If space is a problem, consider heading over to your local Toyota, Honda, Mazda or etc Japanese car dealership and inquire about getting some M8 cap screws with a 12mm hex head and correct length to replace the problem 13mm hex head bolt.
Another solution to this problem is to use an internal hex head bolt. M8, internal hex head bolts are common enough and they do not have the corrosion problem with plated steel hardware. If you go the stainless steel route, use plenty of good anti-seize to prevent problems with threaded stainless steel hardware.
Porosity of the castings tends to slowly eat away at most all hardware associated with the cooling system (Thermostat housing, water pump and etc). This is a reasonable place to use stainless steel hardware in place of plated steel.
Bernice
Bernice
If space is a problem, consider heading over to your local Toyota, Honda, Mazda or etc Japanese car dealership and inquire about getting some M8 cap screws with a 12mm hex head and correct length to replace the problem 13mm hex head bolt.
Another solution to this problem is to use an internal hex head bolt. M8, internal hex head bolts are common enough and they do not have the corrosion problem with plated steel hardware. If you go the stainless steel route, use plenty of good anti-seize to prevent problems with threaded stainless steel hardware.
Porosity of the castings tends to slowly eat away at most all hardware associated with the cooling system (Thermostat housing, water pump and etc). This is a reasonable place to use stainless steel hardware in place of plated steel.
Bernice
Bernice
Black-Tooth
Tony Natoli
Great Jerry... I haveta tell ya...
way prior to this forum being available... like 7 years prior... I encountered the same problem and gave up! Too damn much trouble just to replace a stupid water pump! So the car sat... What a waste!
When I finally decided to clear out the garage and send the car to the crusher... I decided to give it one more try... and that is when I found the access panel. A new pump, battery and 100 bucks lighter... I started it up on 7 year old gas and took it for a walk... Two hours later I returned with a grin I could not get to leave my face!
The rest is history. Its good you didn't wait 7 years to take advantage of our experience here. I believe it was Texas Bix Bender in his book, "A Cowboy's Guide to Life" who said... "Most GOOD advice comes from experience, most of which was BAD..."
Enjoy the ride and SEND pictures!
way prior to this forum being available... like 7 years prior... I encountered the same problem and gave up! Too damn much trouble just to replace a stupid water pump! So the car sat... What a waste!
When I finally decided to clear out the garage and send the car to the crusher... I decided to give it one more try... and that is when I found the access panel. A new pump, battery and 100 bucks lighter... I started it up on 7 year old gas and took it for a walk... Two hours later I returned with a grin I could not get to leave my face!
The rest is history. Its good you didn't wait 7 years to take advantage of our experience here. I believe it was Texas Bix Bender in his book, "A Cowboy's Guide to Life" who said... "Most GOOD advice comes from experience, most of which was BAD..."
Enjoy the ride and SEND pictures!