82 x1/9 timing issue

L

labeljohn

Low Mileage
Hey I have an 82 not firing right. I just changed the timing belt, making sure #1 was at tdc and the cam indicator was pointing to the right spot. Looks dead on balls actually.

I don't understand what the deal is with lining the distributor up to #4. I've got mine lined up 10 degress advanced on #1 with a timing light and well its purring like a grown ass cat taking a dump.

Firing order 1342. Don't know what else it could be. Gonna try swapping the wires around so where I had 1342 i'll have 4213 tomorrow, but it feels like i'm grasping at straws here. Any suggestions?

Oh and also how important is getting the proper torque on the tensioner pulley? When I took it loose it dumped coolant everywhere and since I doing this job in a Hotel parking lot after work when its cold and dark I reefed on that bolt to make sure it sealed up. Should I loosen it and shoehorn a torque wrench in there?

Thanks in advance, gotta get this squared away otherwise I'm stuck here Christmas.
 
Where in North Carolina? There are a bunch of X owners scattered across the state.
 
1342, 4213, 2134...all the same
Crank TDC, cam at mark, then move crank to 10 BTDC, then turn distributor so when cap is on the rotor is right at the #4 terminal, should start and run, fine tune it with timing light, if your light has an advance knob be sure it's set to 0.
http://xwebforums.com/wiki/index.php?title=StaticTiming skip down to photo 17, static timing section
 
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labeljohn said:
I don't understand what the deal is with lining the distributor up to #4. I've got mine lined up 10 degress advanced on #1 with a timing light and well its purring like a grown ass cat taking a dump.
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When everything is right, when the timing marks are lined up #1 and #4 are at TDC, and the cam is holding the valves of #1 open (top of exhaust stroke, start of intake stroke) and #4 shut (top of compression stroke, start of power stroke) so you want the dizzy to light off #4 cylinder. However, you can put your timing light on either #1 or #4 lead because they're both at TDC when either fires.

If you set your dizzy up to fire #1 and it's running, either you're using the wrong cam timing marks, the wires or wrong, or someone has swapped the odd 1300 bit into your car.

Oh and also how important is getting the proper torque on the tensioner pulley? When I took it loose it dumped coolant everywhere and since I doing this job in a Hotel parking lot after work when its cold and dark I reefed on that bolt to make sure it sealed up. Should I loosen it and shoehorn a torque wrench in there?
Click to expand...
This is a steel nut on a steel stud set in an iron block without any gasket to compress evenly or anything like that, so too tight isn't going to do any harm. Too loose would be bad though....
Me? I'd go back and put a torque wrench on it to make sure that it was tight enough, but I wouldn't slacken the tensioner if it's already tight enough - jumping a tooth would suck.
 
Kannapolis/concord, but my company is in Minnesota and i'm in Dayton OH right now. To be honest I just came back from overseas so the x1/9 is my home ; )

Makes Moving all the more iteresting. Had to buy a new suitcase so it would fit.
 
Thanks man. Yeah I swapped the wires from 1342 to 4213 just now and it ran... Interesting fiats can run 180 out on the firing order. It isn't running much better but what I suspect is that I have a bad ballast resistor, coil, condenser, or some combination.

It wasn't running too good (surging) when I started the belt. I noticed that the distributor was loose and figured it had moved out of time. I was planning to do the belt anyway so I figured I would bother to get her purring until put it on.

The spark is orangeish and not hot looking. So thats my theory Now that The timing should be dead on in either the 1342 or the 4213 config not sure which but I am leaning to the 4213.

So Im gonna check on that tonight hoping it decides not to start raining heavy again.

Assuming I need a coil or ballast resistor or condenser any ideas on autozone availability or substitutes? Planning to head home Friday and there is not time for a cheeky Vics auto order.

As far as the Tensioner, as long as it will not hurt it i am pretty sure its going no where. I am more worried about the crank pulley that was put on with a breaker bar and chain wrench. I may take it over to a shop and get them to put an impact on it.

Thanks Again. John
 
Your kinda close to Midwest Bayless.
http://www.midwest-bayless.com/storefrontprofiles/default.aspx?sfid=208227
I admit I'm confused on what you're doing with spark order. Engine on 10 BTDC, dizzy rotor under a terminal, doesn't matter which one, as long as that plug wire leads to #4 cylinder, the next terminal clockwise (as you look down on the dizzy) will be #2 so that wire needs to go to #2, and then #1, then 3, then 4 again, some caps are confusing as the terminal leads cross over themselves.
I confuse easily. Here's my thread on it, don't start at the beginning! skip to post 85 or so, page wish
http://xwebforums.com/forum/index.php?threads/19067/

is your battery healthy? grounds still good? weak battery causes weirdness with ECU they say
dizzycap.jpg
 
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I understand now that #4 is on the compression stroke when you line the timing marks on the crank and cam pulleys.

But now I am even more confused. I had #1 lined up 10BTDC with a light and the correct firing order but it was still running rough.

I got off work cranked it up, trying to decide what to do next. It ran rough for a bit then it wouldn't crank. turned it over a bit and now it sounds like it has no compression when it turns over. I thought the starter was not engaging at first. But the motor is spinning

I put a new coil on it. Still nothing. Have spark so the ECU should still be good.

Sprayed ether in it thinking its the fuel pump. Nothing.

Going to check that the timing is still right first thing tomorrow.

Is it possible someone put fuel injection on a 1300 long block somewhere down the line? Maybe I bent the valves up doing this job.
 
low hanging fruit

Hi John,

Check to be sure this wire is connected to the coil. I have had this wire get knocked off while working in the engine bay. If it isn't connected, then engine will crank but not fire.

86_coil_wire.jpg


86_coil_1.jpg


86_coil_2.jpg
 
Dam, I've been reading your post and I finally figured out just how you took that picture. Behind the seat right? That right there is going to change my life...
 
dizzy access in spare tire well

Yep, that access is in the spare tire well. So... do you know there is an engine bay access panel in the rear trunk too???

IM001744.jpg


Pull out the carpet and you will find a panel bolted to the bulk head. Makes reaching the alternator much easier.
 
I did a timing belt on a Milano (which coincidentally I sold the motor to someone who was planning to shoehorn it into an x1/9) that was a breeze compared to this. Course then I had luxuries like a place to work, jack stands and a floor jack. did this one in snow flurries here at the hotel with no stands and the jack out of my bosses taurus.

I looked harder at that picture and I think I was being retarded with my firing order. I think i have 2 wires crossed. at least i will cross my fingers and look at that for the 20th time or so in the daylight.
 
labeljohn said:
I appreciate that but i'm in Dayton OH right now
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Midwest bAyless is in Columbus, few miles up the road from you.
Yes, access panel behind passenger seat, big help, keep it off and dizzy bolt slightly loose and you can fine tune timing while driving.:excited:
 
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