Master cylinder replacements

D

Denise Burchette

True Classic
I know it's in here somewhere, but I've been searching for some guidance on replacing the master cylinders on my 86 X19. I have procrastinated long enough and this crappy weather is really getting to me. What better way to get in a good mood than to work on my Fiat, right? Can anyone provide me with a link? Thanks in advance.
 
This is one of those x1/9 service items where being smaller make a significant difference.

Remove the lower steering column cover and it's associated hardware.

Drain the brake and clutch fluid. It's my preference to help reduce the brake fluid mess inside the interior. Soak the flare nuts with penetrating oil like PB blaster at this time.

More work space can be had by removing the driver's seat ( four M8 socket heads hold the seat to the floor pan).

Use a good quality 10mm flare nut wrench to loosen the brake fittings, It is suggested to replace the clutch master at this time. I sort of remember the flare nut on the clutch is a 12mm. Two M8 nuts hold the pedal assembly to the steering column, remove these after the brake and clutch lines and hoses have been disconnected.

Remove the pedal assembly.

Two very , very long M8 bolts hold the clutch & brake master to the pedal assembly. Disconnect the remaining lines to remove the brake master. I usually remove the pedal pivot (white plastic and the source of creaking pedals) to check it for cracks and lubricate it. This will involve wrestling with the clutch return spring.

Replace the reservoir feed hoses and clamps while all this is out of the car, use the proper hoses and clamps.

Reverse this basic procedure to put it all back together.

Re-fill and bleed the brake & clutch systems.

Denise Burchette said:
I know it's in here somewhere, but I've been searching for some guidance on replacing the master cylinders on my 86 X19. I have procrastinated long enough and this crappy weather is really getting to me. What better way to get in a good mood than to work on my Fiat, right? Can anyone provide me with a link? Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
 
Couple other snivets...

The lines are held onto the MC with those crimp-type clamps.
They come off easy using a dremel w/ cutting wheel.
Plan on using FI clamps to replace those that you cut.

Bernice suggested draining the reserviors, and that is good but also plan on plenty of rags on the
floor to catch what's in the lines too. It's a somewhat messy job.

"Enjoy" (not!)
 
getting the pedal assembly was the easy part, getting it back, well i couldnt do it. i couldnt get the nuts started so my 11 year old grabbed the socket, cralled in and said "ill do it myself", and he did.

fiatx19029.jpg
 
when he was 5 i started to restore a 124 and my son helped with everything. he loved to work on it and to go driving. i traded that car for a cycle and he got so mad. now we are working on my x19 and he told me he will help if i get him his 124 when mine is done. so we started to look for a project car for him, i told him if i can get one cheep enough we will get it and he can work on it so when he turns 16, be ready to drive it.
http://www.facebook.com/album.phpaid=155613&id=1165837834&l=09c82dfc1c
 
Denise... it's gone...

There was a great pictorial on the MAX1/9 site years ago... and he stronlgy suggested removing the pedal assembly and replacing both at the same time.

I think I would if I needed to replace the brake master, but not just the clutch master.

One other suggestion... try and "break" the flare nuts while it is still bolted up using GOOD flare nut wrenches. Having them mounted still makes for better torque application. I'm also told the HF wrenches are no good... neither were my OLD Craftman's I had.

Before BUTCHERING them up, I FIRMLY, but GENTLY used some small vice-grips and WD40 to break mine loose... then cleaned up the teethmarks with a file and used regular open-ends from then on.

And secondly... using kids is a great idea also... for a bunch of reasons. My 7 year old g-daughter was my pedal pumper when I went to bleed the system!
 
Flare wrench tip

If they just won't loosen the nut, use vise grips on the flare wrench (not the nut) and you should be good to go.
 
Aha, good thinking, Gregory!!

budgetzagato said:
....... use vise grips on the flare wrench (not the nut) and you should be good to go.
Click to expand...

By clamping the vicegrips onto the flare wrench JAWS would add that little bit more "bite" to the wrench as it turns the flare nut - but doesn't butcher the flare nut hex's like the vicegrips would!! :worship:

cheers, Ian - NZ
 
NO...

The cylinders are mounted into the pedal assembly shear loaded. This is why that long bolt has a long un-threaded section. While threaded rod works, it is poor engineering practice. The FIAT / Bertone folks made up those bolts for good reasons.

Threaded rod in place of the stock long bolts is Not recommended.

Double nut is OK, but a lock nut works equally well and in ways better.

One more thing, unless grade B7 threaded rod is used, the stuff commonly found in the hardware store is significantly lower strength than the stock grade 8.8 bolts. Hardware and other parts related to the brake system is an area I'm not willing to take any chances with in any car.

jake said:
To save headache in the future, replace the long bolts with thread stock. then you just have to take off the nuts on whatever side you need to get to. I did a double nut on each side to lock it in place.

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h226/syvyorig/bmcdn.jpg
Click to expand...
 
Brake hose

I'm in the process of removing the lines. Still have some nuts soaking. I thought this may be a good time to replace the cloth braided hoses. Does anyone know how much I should order?
 
Matt Brannon has the hose

and I'm thinking 4 meters for the whole car, but check with him.
 
Some hints on the hose replacement

It's very difficult to attach the hoses to the MC while they are in the car. Pull out that pedal assembly again (sorry, kid). Also, make sure the new MC has nylon inlets that are the same size as original. Some people reuse the old ones because some new MCs come with inlets that are too small. Don't ask me how I know this :<. Attach the hoses to the inlets and then feed them through the firewall as you attach the pedal assembly. Trim off the excess length at the reservoir end. Make sure the tank is in place so you know how much length you really need before you trim. Don't ask me how I know this either ;>.

MikeR ('86x)
 
sorry to be juvenile

but something in that post made me lol...

I second the method descirbed by Mr Richmond. I spent much more time trying to attach them to the MC while in the car then it did to undo everything and do it that way.

Good Luck!
 
Stuck nut. Help!

I have PB blasted the nut on the big line on the clutch cylinder and tried everything I could think of to get it loose, including sweet talking one of my go kart customers into trying. Is this thing reverse threaded or welded on? Dang, I knew things were going to well.:cry:
 
Heat

Hate to say it, but you're going to have to heat it.
This in itself can be a problem, because the fluid burns. (fire)
Plan on something to extinguish a small but potential fire.
Wet rags will do. Protectyour surroundings. Wear protection for your face
in case fluid pressure builds up. Once the nut cracks free,
you're good to go.
 
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