The Flood Survivor - 82 X1/9 Build

[johnph]

View attachment 82882
Given this picture:

Remove the seats.
Clean all surfaces to get rid of residual material, grease etc.
Verify the hydraulics for brakes and clutch are working properly, if not then now’s the time.
Ensure all wiring is functional.
Run any wires you need to for speakers or other electrical repairs and upgrades. Highly recommend a starter relay in the spare tire well and I would add two relays with their own power supply wire to take the load off the ignition switch to feed switched loads. Install a second supply wire to the fuse box junction. You will never have as easy a time or access to run wires etc
Install heater box.
Install secondary ducting since you have AC. Verify the vacuum supply is intact. You could consider changing to manual controls for the AC system to get rid of the push button
Install any sound proofing you want around the interior.
Install rear bulkhead vinyl etc
Install carpet
Install dash
Install AC controls, it would be good to be able to run the engine or apply vacuum to verify function of the AC control buttons, actuators
Install center console, install switches etc
Install secondary trim around door openings, there are two metal trims that hold the carpet at the A pillar, door opening steel trim
Install instrument panel and verify all electrical works
Install secondary trim around the steering column
Install seats

Doors
Clean out any detritus and clean door face where you will be applying adhesive
Use @6 mil plastic to make up the moisture seal for doors. There is a secondary flap one adds to shield the winder and protect the door handle mechanism
Tape plastic down or apply double sided tape to door and then apply plastic
Poke holes in the plastic for the clips you have replaced on the door cards. The clips are delicate so ensure the the holes are all poked…buy extra clips. Please don’t screw it down.
Install door handle trims and window winders

Drive away with the knowledge of a job well done.

How hard could it be

check and replace heater control valve and hoses

 

[halr75]

View attachment 82882
Given this picture:

Remove the seats.

........

Drive away with the knowledge of a job well done.

How hard could it be

@kmead - absolute legand! This is exactly what i needed!

Many MANY thanks.

 

[Alex(Tenerife)]

check and replace heater control valve and hoses

Also check the heater itself for integrity. Much easier to replace this now if needed.

 

[kmead]

Also check the heater itself for integrity. Much easier to replace this now if needed.

The heater core for the AC cars are in short supply so I hope yours is good.

Indeed, the heater assembly is something which if it isn’t out, needs to come out. While it is out, clean and rebuild everything as they take a real environmental beating.

Replacing the heater control valve is an excellent call given its location. I used a plastic replacement on my car that is common so I can replace it relatively easily.

check and replace heater control valve and hoses

 

[halr75]

One win this evening, I have spent more (work) hours than I care to admit trying to figure out a replacement for the washer fluid pump for the over sized plastic tank on my 82. Couldn’t find ANY size references for commonly available ones but found a post on a Lambo forum for a Diablo build that referenced the same OE part number. Turns out a ‘99 Jeep Cherokee pump appears to be a direct drop in replacement. Grabbed one at Napa for $16 or so…

 

[Rod Midkiff]

I would think about doing away with the large tank and switching to the bag in the headlight bucket. (That large tank uses up more frunk space than you think.

 

[halr75]

By no means the impressive sprint of @Clatter but making some progress in amongst the complete living room remodel my wife has launched me into the last couple of weeks! Springs back from powder coat, 22hr turn around for $15 a corner. Flywheel cleaned up and valves lapped in ready for assembly. Bonus photo of the nearly completed house project to ease my guilty conscience at not making more progress on the car!!

 

[Mark_Toro]

Your remodel skills are something I don't possess. Looks nice.

 

[Clatter]

I’m trying to get my car done before SWMBO uses her magic powers to get a kitchen.

Luckily, mine is “for the kids” so she hasn’t intervened just yet…

 

[halr75]

Some progress today after buttoning us the built ins yesterday. Feels good to get back at it!!

• Rear suspension cleaned up and rust encapsulated
• Some parts top coated in Rustoleum Professional semi-gloss black
• Rear brake shields stripped, etch primed and caliper painted black
• Valves fully lapped in, all valve spring components cleaned and ready for the head build
• Strut cleanup has begun, using plastic razor blades and block cleaner to good effect on the zeibart over spray.
• I did spend $15 ordering OEM correct yellow cad nylocs for strut tops and strut to bearing carriers.
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[halr75]

A couple of strut questions and some photos of progress.
1. One of the steering pivot thrust plates is cracked out. Do you think a quality 3D printed replacement would work? I have access to both a Formlabs resin printer and a Markforged printer with continuous carbon fiber capability if that would be required.
2. What would be a good approximation of the KYB Gr-2 metallic grey paint? Am thinking cast alu rust oleum…

Interesting that this car had less than 40,000miles and had replacement struts…

 

[rx1900]

A couple of strut questions and some photos of progress.
1. One of the steering pivot thrust plates is cracked out. Do you think a quality 3D printed replacement would work? I have access to both a Formlabs resin printer and a Markforged printer with continuous carbon fiber capability if that would be required.


View attachment 84187

Those plastic pivots are available new from Eurosport Uk, and used from MWB and Obert.. Cheap enough that it would not be worth trying to 3D print one.

A great upgrade is to replace them with a nifty roller bearing upgrade kit. For easier, more responsive steering. Kits are available from MWB, Obert, Eurosport Uk, and ...well..me....

If your budget doesn't stretch to any option above...suggest you place a "wanted' ad on this forum. I'm sure lots of folks that upgraded to the roller kit would let you have their old plastic piece pretty cheap.....

 

[Clatter]

You go brother...
Nice progress.

Happy Wife, Happy Life!
That project came out nice enough that it should buy some car time.
Careful, though... Do good work and you get signed up for more.

My experience with KYBs is that they get stiff from sitting.
Unlike some dampers that go soft and ineffective, those GR-2s can go 'lumber truck' on you.
Make sure they cycle freely and aren't getting bound up...

 

[halr75]

Time for another intermittant update!
After some back and forth with @rx1900 on best options for doing the suspension right i settled on a purchase of his complete rebuild kits. I have some replacement rear bushings of unknown age that came with the car and most of the ball join boots are rotted out. In for a penny in for a pound...i dont want to be tearing her back down once i have it pieced together! Hopefully that care package will arrive today along with the roller bearing steering pivot that he also offers and some other goodies! Thanks Doug for making these parts available!

In the meantime i have been continuing on part clean up, got the valves back in the head and was VERY generously given a replacement fuel tank by @Rod Midkiff! Obligitory wire wheel damage photo from my clean up efforts.

 

[halr75]

Question for the erudite folks here - whats the best practice on two fronts wrt fuel tanks:

1. Replacing the tar backed matting that shrouds the tank (on one side?). I saw a couple of differnent threads and it seems the concensus is to use closed cell foam in place of the old moisture holding stuff (cheap camping sleeping mat?). Should i spray some rubberized under coating on the tank first as an additional moisture barrier. I selectively treated any spot rust after wire wheeling with some Ospho, sprayed with Rust Reformer and then gave it a top coat of Rustoleom Professional matt black (didnt have gloss on hand).
2. Tank sealer - when i thought i could save the original fuel tank i purchased KBS coating tank seal kit. I am worried about the filter basket on the outflow and whether this improves things or will potential make things worse. The inside of the tank looks pretty damn clean...