A puzzle: how to remove the heater blower box?

[Knubspud]

I'm curious, for the AC style heater box what is the value in keeping the water valve attached to the heater box? It seems like the mounting rivets could be drilled out and the valve could be installed before putting the box back in? It wouldn't bounce around since it clamps directly to the heater pipe.

 

[Dr.Jeff]

I'm curious, for the AC style heater box what is the value in keeping the water valve attached to the heater box? It seems like the mounting rivets could be drilled out and the valve could be installed before putting the box back in? It wouldn't bounce around since it clamps directly to the heater pipe.

Contributing to this very helpful thread minimally–I discovered that Detroit Muscle Technologies sells replacement Ranco water valve repair seals:

detroitmuscletechnologies.com​

Ranco Water Valve Repair Seal Set
Ranco Water Valve Repair Seal - 1" Large Top Seal

It would depend on the design of the valve. Some have a "anchor" point of some type on the valve body to hold the control cable's sheath in position. Others do not. On valves that don't hold the sheath still, it can move back and forth when the cable control lever is pulled. That is further exaggerated if the entire valve body isn't anchored somehow...allowing it to also move. Unfortunately the heater hoses may not provide sufficient support for the valve in that case.

So if the valve isn't well supported, and it doesn't have a means of holding the cable sheath still, then you won't get the full action at the end of the cable and the valve won't open and close fully. However valve designs that do anchor the sheath can operate without the entire valve having to be held against the housing.

Here's an example of what I'm talking about. Random pic found online:

The valve body (green arrow) includes a support/anchor for the cable sheath (yellow arrow). So when the cable is moved, all of its motion is applied to the valve (red arrow). The inner (cable) and outer (sheath) parts of the control cable operate together due to the anchor on the valve body.

If the sheath anchor (yellow arrow) was part of the heater box instead of the valve body, then the valve body must be firmly mounted to that heater box in order for the cable movement to be fully transmitted.

 

[LarryC]

I have the very sample valve in my Broncos and I can tell you that compared to the original X 1/9 Ranco valve they do not seal nearly as well. The Ranco valve has a very positive shut off. The aftermarket thing is a "kinda" shut off. Meaning that in the middle of the summer you notice that hot air is till coming out of the box with these aftermarket so-called valves.

 

[Knubspud]

Thanks Dr. Jeff and LarryC for the comments. In the case of my '82 X's AC/heater box, the bracket with water valve and cable anchor is riveted to the box, yet completely independent, unlike the non-AC version. I see no reason why the bracket can't just sit on top of the heater pipe, greatly simplifying re-installation of the box. I'm not sure that removal of the AC/heater box was more difficult than dropping the pedal box, but it certainly wasn't easy!

 

[Dr.Jeff]

Thanks Dr. Jeff and LarryC for the comments. In the case of my '82 X's AC/heater box, the bracket with water valve and cable anchor is riveted to the box, yet completely independent, unlike the non-AC version. I see no reason why the bracket can't just sit on top of the heater pipe, greatly simplifying re-installation of the box. I'm not sure that removal of the AC/heater box was more difficult than dropping the pedal box, but it certainly wasn't easy!

If I recall correctly, on my AC equipped '79 (which I think is the same as your '82), the valve is mounted to that bracket riveted to the box as you described. However the cable sheath is mounted (clamped down) to another separate location on the box. It is that second mount (for the cable sheath) that keeps the cable moving properly as you activate the dash controls. Without the sheath being securely mounted, it will move as well as the inner cable - not allowing proper activation of the valve. Therefore if you relocate the valve mounting position, then you must also relocate the cable sheath anchor position accordingly. Or use a different style valve that includes the sheath anchor (I shown previously). Hopefully that all made sense.

And yes, I fully agree, removing / installing the heater box is a royal pain.

 

[Knubspud]

Hmm, on mine the sheath is anchored to the bracket. The only connection to the box are two rivets. Maybe they changed the design.

I'm including a photo of the disassembled valve just in case it has future value to someone. The parts in the box are what wear typically wear out.

 

[Dr.Jeff]

Hmm, on mine the sheath is anchored to the bracket. The only connection to the box are two rivets. Maybe they changed the design.

Now you got me thinking about it....it's been a few years since I've looked at it. I think I confused the X's box with another vehicle I restored at the same time - both were extremely similar overall. But I believe you are right, the '79 also had the cable sheath anchored on the valve bracket. The subject has been discussed before, maybe you can search for older threads that will help.

One other consideration to relocating the valve is to make sure there is enough length in the cable to reach your intended location, and make sure the layout still allows the cable to operate freely. I had some problems with this when I converted my AC controls from the stock vacuum design to a fully manual one.

 

[LarryC]

Interesting. On my '79 the valve is secured with two screws.

 

[Knubspud]

Yes, that is just like mine–thanks for the photo. Two screws hold the valve to the plate, but the plate is riveted to the box. This is going to take awhile to fix since I'll need to rebuild the valve, and I also need to repair a leak in the heater core. I should have started on this before it started getting cold outside!

 

[LarryC]

Got it. Of course one way to make this all easier is what someone on here did. Cut a hole in the frunk! I suppose if one did it properly and made a nice plate to cover the hole, then this would work. But it's a drastic measure!