Performing Honda K24a3/AST5 6spd Conversion

[lookforjoe]

I I have told some folks that are way smarter than me on this matter to see if they have any suggestions.
It sounds like you are running a set up like my 2ZZ. I have 2 WBO2. One to the ECU and one to an AEM gage? It looks like one is on the bottom and one on the top. Have you tried changing which one is on top to see if that makes a difference. I am just curious if the bottom one may be collecting moisture. Here is my WBO2s it's hard to tell but they are both just after my headers in the decat pipe, they are Bosch 4.9.

Those are some beautiful headers you made.

Yes, one System WBO2 and one AEM 4.9 WBO2. Neither one points downward, as that is guaranteed to kill the sensor. The lower port is the original header bung, after I cut & welded the runners & collector back together to fit the X1/9 chassis.

The Ram Header is a modified PLM header intended for the K20, in a Honda Chassis.

Older pic that shows the 2 sensors - one at the collector and one in the cat.

 

[Rupunzell]

I can make an adaptor harness to bridge the O2 and harness plug, then measure the amps on the signal lead. I can measure / view the sign al voltage in software, so not sure there is anything to gain using an external voltmeter. Heater circuit is not a problem, that is never the failure.

The goal and objective of this test is to determine if the O2 sensor is functioning properly and if there is something in the ECU/related wiring causing the O2 sensor to fail.

~There should be only one ECU connection to the O2 sensor. If there are other "stuff" connected to the single O2 sensor, those other connections can be a problem (usually ok).

~None of the O2 sensor wires can touch or make connection with chassis ground. If any of the O2 sensor wires do, there will be a problem.

The Ampere meter is to used to measure the current draw from the O2 sensor. This current should be in the microamps if that.. The "X" notes where the break in the circuit should be (direct off the O2 sensor wire pair). Most modern DVMs with a current measuring setting should be good enough for this. Current should be flowing from the O2 sensor to the ECU's inputs and nothing else other than the voltmeter. If there is current going into the O2 sensor, figure out where that current is originating from then correct it.

The voltmeter is used to monitor the O2 sensor's output. The voltage range is typically 0.01 volts to about 1 volt with about 0.45volts being stoichiometic mixture of about 14.7 to 1.. This is why the voltmeter.. If there is deviation from this, there is a problem in the connections between the O2 sensor and ECU..

Second is to check/verify the O2 sensor heater circuit is functioning properly. Yes, it has not been a problem, doing this test/check help to reduce or eliminate another possible source of the problem..

Diagnosing O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Failures | MOTOR

As vehicles grow older, there comes a point when the oxygen or air/fuel ratio sensor’s heater circuit will probably fail. When that happens, the easiest fix is to install a new sensor. But when the vehicle comes back two days later with the same heater code, what then? A local shop called me in on …

www.motor.com

O2 sensors should not fail like this. They are essentially a battery that reacts to the O2 content of the exhaust at exhaust temperatures. Typically they wear out instead of sudden death as they have been doing.


Bernice

 

[lookforjoe]

The goal and objective of this test is to determine if the O2 sensor is functioning properly and if there is something in the ECU/related wiring causing the O2 sensor to fail.

~There should be only one ECU connection to the O2 sensor. If there are other "stuff" connected to the single O2 sensor, those other connections can be a problem (usually ok).

~None of the O2 sensor wires can touch or make connection with chassis ground. If any of the O2 sensor wires do, there will be a problem.

The Ampere meter is to used to measure the current draw from the O2 sensor. This current should be in the microamps if that.. The "X" notes where the break in the circuit should be (direct off the O2 sensor wire pair). Most modern DVMs with a current measuring setting should be good enough for this. Current should be flowing from the O2 sensor to the ECU's inputs and nothing else other than the voltmeter. If there is current going into the O2 sensor, figure out where that current is originating from then correct it.

The voltmeter is used to monitor the O2 sensor's output. The voltage range is typically 0.01 volts to about 1 volt with about 0.45volts being stoichiometic mixture of about 14.7 to 1.. This is why the voltmeter.. If there is deviation from this, there is a problem in the connections between the O2 sensor and ECU..
View attachment 79053


Second is to check/verify the O2 sensor heater circuit is functioning properly. Yes, it has not been a problem, doing this test/check help to reduce or eliminate another possible source of the problem..

Diagnosing O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Failures | MOTOR

As vehicles grow older, there comes a point when the oxygen or air/fuel ratio sensor’s heater circuit will probably fail. When that happens, the easiest fix is to install a new sensor. But when the vehicle comes back two days later with the same heater code, what then? A local shop called me in on …

www.motor.com

O2 sensors should not fail like this. They are essentially a battery that reacts to the O2 content of the exhaust at exhaust temperatures. Typically they wear out instead of sudden death as they have been doing.


Bernice

Thank you Bernice. I will use your diagram as a guide.

The factory O2 harness is integrated into the main EMS harness, with a 4 wire branch of about a foot length terminating in the O2 sensor socket.

I'll start by making the adaptor harness to sit between the O2 plug and the harness plug, which will allow me to perform the tests without fiddling with loose wires.

 

[Rupunzell]

Thank you Bernice. I will use your diagram as a guide.

The factory O2 harness is integrated into the main EMS harness, with a 4 wire branch of about a foot length terminating in the O2 sensor socket.

I'll start by making the adaptor harness to sit between the O2 plug and the harness plug, which will allow me to perform the tests without fiddling with loose wires.

Report back, will try to help you sort this out.. DO ask questions if there is any uncertainty or ?

Bernice

 

[lookforjoe]

Drove the X to work today, it was only 25ºF when I left at 6am, so I kept the targa on. By mid-morning it was in the high 30's, so I was able to drive to get my coffee with the targa off.

I removed the ELD, in part because one tuner said they can cause spikes that will affect the WBO2, and secondly because the ELD E15 terminal at the ECU is the one I need to repurpose for the AEM WBO2 gauge.

moved the battery cable from the ELD back to the MEGA Fuse, where it was before I did the K-swap.

 

[lookforjoe]

AC clutch bearing is making a whining racket. Don't know if the fact the car was left outside in the rain several times whilst at the bodyshop ( ) allowed water to get in there, either way I need to replace it.

55x35x20, looking up bearings for a DSK15CH; matches what I removed. Getting one off Amazon, it's quickest.

 

[lookforjoe]

Put a shorter belt on to confirm the noise is only from the AC clutch bearing play, I had several alternate length belts from when I was figuring out pulley & belt routing K60529 (6PK1340)

 

[lookforjoe]

Had to order a complete compressor clutch - I replaced the bearing, and after putting it back together to check the disc gap, I see that the pulley has excessive runout - at least .025", so no way to make that work. Can't find the exact clutch for under $200, so I ordered one that "looks" right - bearing ID, and overall pulley dimensions, different wiring connector, but that's a non issue. Should be here tomorrow.

ODO was at 6666 this morning on the way to work

 

[lookforjoe]

Have to make a hole for the 80gal compressor, so yesterday I cleared out the area where the small compressor currently lives - this meant I had to improve my outside storage area on the backside of the garage. I laid some planking & then decided I need to make an awning and an end cap to reduce the (fall) mess that accumulates back there

 

[JKIDD]

Wow, you don't often see a Pontiac Aztec in the wild....

 

[lookforjoe]

Wow, you don't often see a Pontiac Aztec in the wild....

yeah - and that's one too many
Belongs to my neighbor, he drives it regularly.
The compressor finally arrived today, and of course it's damaged. Noted on the waybilI, and I called Home Depot to make sure it's noted in their records. Now I have to go talk to someone in the store to figure out if they can order the damaged items

Compressor tube

Motor capacitor (?)

Then I noticed a cylinder head fin is broken

...and the entire motor mount plate is bent, so the drive belt is not aligned

 

[lookforjoe]

So, Home Depot is going to replace the compressor - what that actually means I have to buy another & return this one to get the refund. Kind of a PITA. The rep I spoke with was very apologetic & helpful though. I said that I felt an additional discount was in order for all the aggravation, wasted day off for the delivery (was supposed to come Tuesday, not Wednesday), etc. She discounted the compressor, and added their 'white glove' service (normally a $200 fee) which apparently is intended to make sure that an item is clear of damage prior to shipment, and again at point of delivery.

So, all in all, once I get a good unit, it will be over $400 off the retail price.

All I got done after work was setting up the press & anchoring it to the platform I made behind the garage. I'm thinking I'll make an awning/ overhang the width of the garage (about 18') to make the platform more user friendly. I should have room to keep a number of larger items out here, albeit under tarps or covers.

 

[Tom Ginefra]

So, Home Depot is going to replace the compressor - what that actually means I have to buy another & return this one to get the refund. Kind of a PITA. The rep I spoke with was very apologetic & helpful though. I said that I felt an additional discount was in order for all the aggravation, wasted day off for the delivery (was supposed to come Tuesday, not Wednesday), etc. She discounted the compressor, and added their 'white glove' service (normally a $200 fee) which apparently is intended to make sure that an item is clear of damage prior to shipment, and again at point of delivery.

So, all in all, once I get a good unit, it will be over $400 off the retail price.

All I got done after work was setting up the press & anchoring it to the platform I made behind the garage. I'm thinking I'll make an awning/ overhang the width of the garage (about 15') to make the platform more user friendly. I should have room to keep a number of larger items out here, albeit under tarps or covers.

Food for thought... I know you've already built the platform, and I don't know if you even have the space or not, but Harbor Freight had a smaller version (10' x 15') of the carport I bought that was recently on sale for $ 150.00. I would have bought that size for myself (instead of the larger one I got) but they were out of stock at the local store near my house, and I didn't want to pay the freight to order it online. BTW, Glad Home Depot's making good on everything!

 

[lookforjoe]

Food for thought... I know you've already built the platform, and I don't know if you even have the space or not, but Harbor Freight had a smaller version (10' x 15') of the carport I bought that was recently on sale for $ 150.00. I would have bought that size for myself (instead of the larger one I got) but they were out of stock at the local store near my house, and I didn't want to pay the freight to order it online. BTW, Glad Home Depot's making good on everything!

Thanks for the thought - I'm planning on eventually pouring a 16 x 20 slab behind the garage & extending the garage rearward. The platform is just to store the heavy equipment for the time being. I don't have a place for a carport.

 

[lookforjoe]

AC clutch kit came - bearing size & offset match, pulley OD is 4.5 vs. 4.8. I'm not going to worry about the difference.

Just have to add a Delphi connector for it.

 

[lookforjoe]

Started on making YT slideshow videos of the main K24 conversion aspects

 

[lookforjoe]

 

[86X]

Awesome build!

 

[lookforjoe]

Dual Tandem MC install

 

[lookforjoe]

Got back in touch with BaT - trying to get the auction timing set for end of March/early April . I still need to go back to the body shop this coming week to get a few cracks around the headlamp openings fixed & then blended. After that, I'll have to remake the vinyl for the nose. While it's out the garage I can work on clearing the space so that ultimately the Datsun will fit with room to move around it.