Selling the X & Bought an 75 Datsun 280Z

[lookforjoe]

Details on the Xenon rear spoiler install. The way it's designed, the end caps press against the rear quarters. The issue there is that the pressure causes the spoiler to pull away from the hatch along the top, and on the back edge. To counter that, I added two more M3 SS machine screws to the outer edge of the hatch, and to the vertical outer edge.







screw heads are visible from the outside, however I'm OK with that.

 

[lookforjoe]

Cork/rubber composite gasket arrived last night, so I changed it out after work

The silicone one (Milkfab is responsive to my inquiry) has torn in several places - note that I did not over torque the cover, in fact they probably could have been snugged tighter, as it took minimal effort using a 1/4 short rachet to crack them free.

Main tear that was pushing out in the left rear corner - note that they spec a bead of silicone to adhere the gasket to the cover. That was allowed to set up prior to install.



Other internal tears





I thoroughly cleaned out all the silicone from the gasket retention grooves in the cover. I could find nothing in the factory manual that referenced using any sort of silicone or other agent to secure the stock type gasket.

Noting the staggered offset of the gasket at the gear end

 

[lookforjoe]

Dropped the tank today, and found the source of my gas fumes/overflow when filling. Smaller vent line off the tank was ruptured. I actually realized I could have seen that if I looked through the louver slots in the tail panel. Didn't want to drive to Carlisle without being able to fill the tank.

Manual for reference







filler neck base & clamp in great shape.



Removed the remnants of the right side bumper shock, and plugged all the holes. Added butyl to ensure a seal





Had to pull out the bottom of the tank a little. I realized there was no way to lever in there from the fuel sender port as there is a baffle in the way. So I just put a threaded bolt in the drain plug and levered the sucker out evenly working around the circumference of the bolt/plug hole



Degrease / clean and paint tank.



Made an elbow to replace the original large loop, the small line I just ran a longer piece, so it could loop gently



Visible through louvers beneath bumper.



For the inside, I cut the original hose - most of the inside was perfectly good there was no cracks in the the material, so I just ran a splice section from the tank, and used a large quick connect to join the two. new grommets for the lines from ZcarDepot.



I did find out that I put the sender in upside down, as when I started it the gauge pegged full. Drained about 4 gallons, prior to doing the work.

I realized the notch in the sender plate was supposed to be on the right not on the left - upside down in this pic

 

[lookforjoe]

Had to leave work early as when I went to fill the Z tank, gas started pouring out past the sender oring

I assumed I had not seated it correctly, which seemed hard to fathom, but it must have rolled when I was tightening the lock plate.

I got home after losing prolly 3 gallons or more - the needle had dropped from around 2/3 to under half after the 20 min drive. I was praying I didn't pass anyone smoking with an open window - I'm pretty sure there was a fuel mist in my wake.

I drained about 4 gallons to get the level below the sender. Couldn't see anything wrong with the o- ring, but I reinstalled with the original as it appeared & felt to be a thicker wall.

Adapted the harness





Put the gas back in, and the big leak was gone, however the new sender (off AliExpress) was leaking around the ground pin. Now I was wishing I hadn't mutilated the original sender when I cut the wires off. When I did that I yanked on the gauge terminal and it pulled out of the sender.

So now I had to fix the original sender just so I could put it back in until I get a new replacement quality unit.

I riveted a Volvo coil terminal connector using the original nylon spacer and the inner seal seat for the gauge terminal. Installed, no more leaks





That done, I wanted to take care of the appearance at the tank and the rear valance as they both looked kind of s*****, and I'm going to the Carlisle Import Show in the AM .

So I sprayed the tank with 3M chip protection, then after an hour and a half, the 3M undercoat. Metal splash guard sprayed separately, and installed after I took this pic.

 

[kmead]

Man that is frustrating. I hate crap parts.

Cheap all too often translates into more work down the path.

Looks pretty dang nice though.

 

[lookforjoe]

Man that is frustrating. I hate crap parts.

Cheap all too often translates into more work down the path.

Looks pretty dang nice though.

What's frustrating with the senders, is all the ones available appear to be this same unit, just priced much higher (50-90USD) for ones shipped from within the US. Apparently there are still some OEM units from when Nissan sold a batch of refurbished 240Zs in the 90's - but those are $$$. I'll live with an inaccurate gauge.

I'm so happy I got this from inland CA - everything I've had to dismantle has pretty much come apart without drama. The tank itself is is great shape, spotless inside in fact. The straps & special carrier bolts are rust free, and so on. Minimal surface rust on any of the frame rails or other exposed areas. The front rails have some superficial rust, but I'll deal with that when I remove the drivetrain.

 

[kmead]

What's frustrating with the senders, is all the ones available appear to be this same unit, just priced much higher (50-90USD) for ones shipped from within the US. Apparently there are still some OEM units from when Nissan sold a batch of refurbished 240Zs in the 90's - but those are $$$. I'll live with an inaccurate gauge.

I'm so happy I got this from inland CA - everything I've had to dismantle has pretty much come apart without drama. The tank itself is is great shape, spotless inside in fact. The straps & special carrier bolts are rust free, and so on. Minimal surface rust on any of the frame rails or other exposed areas. The front rails have some superficial rust, but I'll deal with that when I remove the drivetrain.

If one owns a vintage car, there are few things nicer than a dry car from a non salt zone. Things just come apart.

I can fix most anything, I hate fixing rusty isht.

 

[lookforjoe]

 

[kmead]

Bet you wish you had that turbo in the black pickup.

I need to go to that show sometime. Looks like fun.

 

[lookforjoe]

Bet you wish you had that turbo in the black pickup.

I need to go to that show sometime. Looks like fun.

Actually I'm pretty much done with turbo builds. I'd rather do all motor at this point
The owner of that car, Nathan, is a friend of one of my Volvo buddies from upstate. He did all his own work, with the frame and suspension mods and fitting the K24 drive train etc., so definitely respectable from a build perspective.

 

[lookforjoe]

I need to go to that show sometime. Looks like fun.

It is fun - it was very well attended even though the weather was not the best. It seems to be a toss up between Volvo and Saab as to which Marque has the most vehicles in attendance. Looked to me like Volvo was the winner this year in that regard but I don't know.
The Fiat club is always there - Brian Benson and others, great people - so I rotate between the Volvo the Datsun and the Fiat people

 

[lookforjoe]

After driving my 280Z 500 miles this past weekend, I can honestly say I can't live with the 4 speed until the drivetrain conversion happens. Mine is in rough shape - 3rd gear whines like a tractor gear set, and in 4th, the shifter rattles & the whole thing sounds like it's gonna explode when I drive over 80 for any duration. There were a couple sprints on the way down & home where I got up over 90, and the car felt pretty good (I had previously felt the nose to be a little flighty at speed, however I think that is mostly the roadway I normally drive on - since I did not experience the same feel on the interstates going to Carlisle PA), but the trans, not so much.

Anyway, I have found a 81 280ZX 5 speed, so I bought it. Previous searches last year hadn't come up with any success. Not exactly cheap, but I figure I can sell it on DTR.

Mine has 3.54:1 FD

81 ZX had 3.90:1 FD

 

[JKIDD]

I have the same trans for my 75. Supposed to be the best overall of the 5 speeds. I've had mine for a year & haven't found the time or motivation to install it yet. You'll probably have yours in by the weekend... If you want to practice the install, I can bring my Z down

 

[lookforjoe]

I have the same trans for my 75. Supposed to be the best overall of the 5 speeds. I've had mine for a year & haven't found the time or motivation to install it yet. You'll probably have yours in by the weekend... If you want to practice the install, I can bring my Z down

Since I'm retiring in late June, I will have more time for other work - if you really want me to do it for you, we can certainly arrange that
I am indeed assuming I will have it installed in short order (once it arrives (from across the country)

 

[lookforjoe]

A member on ClassicZ gave me a link to the ZX FSM - so now I have the proper assembly instructions