This doesn't look right...

FiatFunk

True Classic
Awful lot of end to end float on this cam I'm installing. Vicks SOHC 3. Yes the camwheel is bolted up tight and not being held out by anything. Floats enough to hit the inside of the cover on the end.
 

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As you assume, there should not be any "float" of the cam and the wheel should not be hitting anything. I have never had any luck with aftermarket cam wheels, they all seemed to have "issues". What happens when you put a stock cam wheel on just for test fit purposes?
 
As you assume, there should not be any "float" of the cam and the wheel should not be hitting anything. I have never had any luck with aftermarket cam wheels, they all seemed to have "issues". What happens when you put a stock cam wheel on just for test fit purposes?
I am changing from Vicks stage 2 to a stage 3, there was some with the stage 2 but not nearly this much. I'll try with the oe wheel later today. I was told on FB that the end cap just keeps the cam in place but I don't like the metal on metal idea. Possibly I'll try a couple nylon washers between the cam wheel and seal.
 
Before checking the cam endfloat, the camshaft end cap by the flywheel should be installed.
 
The end cap on the cambox is what sets the "float" of the cam. Be mindful of how thick/thin a gasket you use as it will affect the float slightly and if not installed correctly it can cause the cam to drag or lock up.
 
The end cap on the cambox is what sets the "float" of the cam. Be mindful of how thick/thin a gasket you use as it will affect the float slightly and if not installed correctly it can cause the cam to drag or lock up.
So there isn't a washer meant to go in behind the camwheel? I made one out of some 1.2 UHMW I had around, less float now but the other end of the cam can still make contact with the end cap. I put some moly in there and will see how it goes but I don't love it.
 
So there isn't a washer meant to go in behind the camwheel? I made one out of some 1.2 UHMW I had around, less float now but the other end of the cam can still make contact with the end cap. I put some moly in there and will see how it goes but I don't love it.
The camshaft is meant to ride in the end cap, it basically just acts like a thrust bearing, it is machined specifically for this. If you tighten the end cap down and it feels like the cam is dragging or the cam is locked add a thicker gasket. Do not add any additional washers to limit the float or you will do damage to your engine.
 
I am changing from Vicks stage 2 to a stage 3, there was some with the stage 2 but not nearly this much. I'll try with the oe wheel later today. I was told on FB that the end cap just keeps the cam in place but I don't like the metal on metal idea. Possibly I'll try a couple nylon washers between the cam wheel and seal.
Metal to metal, the cam runs inside an aluminum housing with the aluminum being the bearing material ... millions of these Lampredi SOHC produced with billions of miles run, no issues with "metal to metal" contact...

BTW, countless modern motors are designed/produced to this day in the same way with the cam running on bare aluminum in oil. This works as a good due to the oil film between the aluminum/steel with the aluminum being softer than the heat treated hard steel.

~Aluminum with oil on hard steel makes a good bearing.

Do not alter the design of the cam end cap just because of personal projection without proper and complete understanding of how this stuff works. The cam housing end cap is the thrust bearing for the cam, thickness of the gasket alters the end play/end float of the cam. If the cam housing end cover/cap is not installed with the proper gasket, the cam will have nothing to limit end play/end float.


Bernice
 
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Metal to metal, the cam runs inside an aluminum housing with the aluminum being the bearing material ... millions of these Lampredi SOHC produced with billions of miles run, no issues with "metal to metal" contact...

BTW, countless modern motors are designed/produced to this day in the same way with the cam running on bare aluminum in oil. This works as a good due to the oil film between the aluminum/steel with the aluminum being softer than the heat treated hard steel.

~Aluminum with oil on hard steel makes a good bearing.

Do not alter the design of the cam end cap just because of personal projection without proper and complete understanding of how this stuff works. The cam housing end cap is the thrust bearing for the cam, thickness of the gasket alters the end play/end float of the cam. If the cam housing end cover/cap is not installed with the proper gasket, the cam will have nothing to limit end play/end float.


Bernice
Thank you! I'll take that washer out and stop worrying about it. I haven't seen any guidance on how much free float there should be w/o the end cap, it was the same amount with the oe cam wheel as it is with the new adjustable one, but more than the cam I am replacing.
 
Using a dial indicator at the cam wheel end, how much axial movement (push/pull the cam) does the cam have with the cover& gasket installed and the screws torqued to their proper values... for the stock cam then the alternate cam?

This can be done direct on the end of the cam without the cam wheel using the M10x1.25 screw to push/pull the cam and the dial indicator on the face of the cam.


Bernice
 
Using a dial indicator at the cam wheel end, how much axial movement (push/pull the cam) does the cam have with the cover& gasket installed and the screws torqued to their proper values... for the stock cam then the alternate cam?

This can be done direct on the end of the cam without the cam wheel using the M10x1.25 screw to push/pull the cam and the dial indicator on the face of the cam.


Bernice
The cambox is installed and it's all shimmied up. I just took out the spacer that I had made, pryed the cam to the end with the end cap on, took the end cap off and I have 20 thou of axial movement when it's all bolted up.
 

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