lookforjoe
True Classic
Long day today. Finally got around to installing the rear diff I installed the Quaife QDF11J LSD in a year and a half ago
Not many pics, I already documented the R&R of the rear. Basically, remove rear shocks, unbolt brake calipers & suspend from shock mount plate. Disconnect ABS sensors & Haldex harness. Disconnect rear CV at Diff. Remove trailing arm forward bolts (4), remove subframe bolts (6). Slightly lower entire rear, then disconnect EVAP tubes (3) and unbolt leak detection pump from subframe. Drop rear.
essential tool for removing rear axles from diff
transfer Haldex module (DEM) from old diff to modded diff
Fill AOC with .7 liter of Volvo-branded oil. Put diff back into subframe, install left axle into diff, push diff to left side, install right axle into diff. I did NOT want to deal with removing the hubs or separating the control arms to pivot the hub out. Replaced the left axle (used part) while I had it apart - I had repaired the inner boot on the original, and that had started spraying CV grease this past spring.
Tipped the entire assembly over to the passenger side & filled the diff, also Volvo fluid, .7L
While I had the rear down, I rewired the extra 2 wires (Y, WH) I had added for the VW DEM into the Volvo harness
Going back together - had the Mrs push the rear subframe forward under the car whilst I aligned the pinion with the rear CV
After that, it was all pretty much cut & dry, just several hours labor to put everything back together
Almost forgot - I did install a new version CEIKA rear brake setup, this one has a mechanical parking brake, vs. the old hydraulic version that wouldn't maintain eBrake function over time. This version is MUCH cleaner design & pretty easy to set up - if only they provided proper directions, it wouldn't be so frustrating dealing with them
These are the directions given for adjusting the caliper mechanism (step 11):
Yeah, NOT HELPFUL
I figured out they were referring to this grub screw - you can see an adjuster wheel inside (I had to remove the caliper to do this, as one cannot see inside the hole with the caliper installed)
so, knowing now that there is an adjuster wheel, I tried rotating it CW, and then CCW to figure out which direction resulted in proper tensioning of the mechanism. I sent them these pics, hopefully they will include them (or their own) in future directions that make sense.
Not many pics, I already documented the R&R of the rear. Basically, remove rear shocks, unbolt brake calipers & suspend from shock mount plate. Disconnect ABS sensors & Haldex harness. Disconnect rear CV at Diff. Remove trailing arm forward bolts (4), remove subframe bolts (6). Slightly lower entire rear, then disconnect EVAP tubes (3) and unbolt leak detection pump from subframe. Drop rear.
essential tool for removing rear axles from diff
transfer Haldex module (DEM) from old diff to modded diff
Fill AOC with .7 liter of Volvo-branded oil. Put diff back into subframe, install left axle into diff, push diff to left side, install right axle into diff. I did NOT want to deal with removing the hubs or separating the control arms to pivot the hub out. Replaced the left axle (used part) while I had it apart - I had repaired the inner boot on the original, and that had started spraying CV grease this past spring.
Tipped the entire assembly over to the passenger side & filled the diff, also Volvo fluid, .7L
While I had the rear down, I rewired the extra 2 wires (Y, WH) I had added for the VW DEM into the Volvo harness
Going back together - had the Mrs push the rear subframe forward under the car whilst I aligned the pinion with the rear CV
After that, it was all pretty much cut & dry, just several hours labor to put everything back together
Almost forgot - I did install a new version CEIKA rear brake setup, this one has a mechanical parking brake, vs. the old hydraulic version that wouldn't maintain eBrake function over time. This version is MUCH cleaner design & pretty easy to set up - if only they provided proper directions, it wouldn't be so frustrating dealing with them
These are the directions given for adjusting the caliper mechanism (step 11):
Yeah, NOT HELPFUL
I figured out they were referring to this grub screw - you can see an adjuster wheel inside (I had to remove the caliper to do this, as one cannot see inside the hole with the caliper installed)
so, knowing now that there is an adjuster wheel, I tried rotating it CW, and then CCW to figure out which direction resulted in proper tensioning of the mechanism. I sent them these pics, hopefully they will include them (or their own) in future directions that make sense.
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