Will a bad ignition contact allow the starter to engage but prohibit spark? I've ran all the trouble shooting on the coil, ICM (tried two rebuilt ones, alt, ect. I'm going to recheck the grounds, but I'm running out of options. All I did was change the ICM and install a hard start relay. New starter, rebuilt alternator, new coil also. Ran a wire from Batt (+) to Coil (+) and Terminal 15 on ICM. All voltage 11.86V. Resistor is out of spec (2 ohm) but car ran with it as so before the ICM swap.
Will a bad ignition switch..
- Thread starter Tpatcher
- Start date
I always post this 
I know I always post this, but every once in a while this wire really is the problem.
Check this wire to the coil. It is easy to dislodge. It has a piggyback connector in the middle, so even when hanging loose it will not look like a disconnected wire. Without this connected, the engine will crank but never fire. I know this from experience.
I know I always post this, but every once in a while this wire really is the problem.
Check this wire to the coil. It is easy to dislodge. It has a piggyback connector in the middle, so even when hanging loose it will not look like a disconnected wire. Without this connected, the engine will crank but never fire. I know this from experience.
Adding to Jim's post...
More often, the situation that Jim presents (post above mine) is more often the cause of the ignition not firing.
However, it IS POSSIBLE that the ignition switch would allow the engine to crank, even fire, but not remain running.
I've seen this in 2 instances over the last few months.
If your connections look OK as in Jim's post, you might want to take a look at the ignition switch as a possible culprit.
Plugging another one in is the fastest way to isolate.
More often, the situation that Jim presents (post above mine) is more often the cause of the ignition not firing.
However, it IS POSSIBLE that the ignition switch would allow the engine to crank, even fire, but not remain running.
I've seen this in 2 instances over the last few months.
If your connections look OK as in Jim's post, you might want to take a look at the ignition switch as a possible culprit.
Plugging another one in is the fastest way to isolate.
Thanks
The piggyback connection is good. It does belong on the (+) coil terminal I hope! I have a new ignition switch I'll try. Also forgot to mention my car has the BWM, which was done ignition wire to fuse box style. I am highly suspicious of the ignition switch because sometimes I would go to start the car and there would be a several second delay from "start" position until the starter actually engaged.
The piggyback connection is good. It does belong on the (+) coil terminal I hope! I have a new ignition switch I'll try. Also forgot to mention my car has the BWM, which was done ignition wire to fuse box style. I am highly suspicious of the ignition switch because sometimes I would go to start the car and there would be a several second delay from "start" position until the starter actually engaged.
ng_randolph
Bjorn H
The piggy-back connector goes on the negative coil terminal, so this is probably your problem.
Strange luck
After close inspection tonight I did have the piggyback wired correctly to the negative terminal. The coil was rotated 180 deg. from when I originally replaced it. However when I ever so lightly raised the wire group to confirm polarity it snapped right off the terminal. Like it was only holding with one or two strands of wire. Made a new one with 14 Ga wire. Optimistic about starting now but battery was drained from earlier trouble shooting and now its dark. I'm going to charge it up, check my grounds one last time and cross my fingers for a start up.
After close inspection tonight I did have the piggyback wired correctly to the negative terminal. The coil was rotated 180 deg. from when I originally replaced it. However when I ever so lightly raised the wire group to confirm polarity it snapped right off the terminal. Like it was only holding with one or two strands of wire. Made a new one with 14 Ga wire. Optimistic about starting now but battery was drained from earlier trouble shooting and now its dark. I'm going to charge it up, check my grounds one last time and cross my fingers for a start up.
Greg in Daytona
New Member
My ignition switch would allow the car to crank just fine with no start. Then it would start but when put in reverse would stall as any extra load on the switch caused it to fail. New switch, issues all resolved. The hardest part is getting the old one off, I had to cut mine off as the drill out method burned up a nice drill.
Jeff N
Your Mileage May Vary
Hoping you can get it finally sorted out, Robert. I feel your pain. The reason I started rebuilding the ICM's to begin with was because of an ignition problem that I STILL haven't gotten figured out. About all I have left to replace at this point is the ignition switch, just need to source one cheap. Sigh.
Got it running
Well I got it started. After I repaired the piggyback wire, It still wouldn't spark. My problem was the after market coil I bought from Rock Auto doesn't work. I was getting no spark with either of the ICMs I have so I tried the original Bosch coil I had replaced just "for good measure" when I replaced the starter. Wouldn't fire with the MOD ICM so I put an original version that was known to work and it fired right up. Runs like a champ. I shouldn't have changed so many components at once. I did a gear reduction starter, hard start relay, rebuilt alternator, new coil, and rebuilt ICM. Looking back I should have tried to start the car after each component was replaced.
Well I got it started. After I repaired the piggyback wire, It still wouldn't spark. My problem was the after market coil I bought from Rock Auto doesn't work. I was getting no spark with either of the ICMs I have so I tried the original Bosch coil I had replaced just "for good measure" when I replaced the starter. Wouldn't fire with the MOD ICM so I put an original version that was known to work and it fired right up. Runs like a champ. I shouldn't have changed so many components at once. I did a gear reduction starter, hard start relay, rebuilt alternator, new coil, and rebuilt ICM. Looking back I should have tried to start the car after each component was replaced.