Complete Wiring Harness

kmead said:
I would start with the made in the UK harness. Presuming its affordable.
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Thanks but no thanks :) I will start much as Steve C suggests - lay out my example then build a shadow board with clips/clamps as needed to hold mating connectors representing all end points in the right relative positions etc. Use appropriate connectors, proper heat shrink boots and junctions and spend the money on proper crimp tools etc. Had a fair bit of exposure to low volume harness building over my professional life. I see this as one of the easier problems in my case.
 
ng_randolph said:
As others have said, the FI electrical system is quite separate from the rest of the car electricals. The FI harness meets the rest of the car at the dual relay; the FI harness plugs into one port on the dual relay, and the car harness plugs into the other. Midwest Bayless shows out of stock on the FI harness, but it might be worth it to call them and the other usual suspect to see what they can scare up.
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That harness isn’t available. I would rather go with something new.
 
kmead said:
Your car seems to have had a hard life at some point in the past.

Is it getting zero current or is it lacking a ground? Sorry not meaning to be pedantic, the two go hand in hand.
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I don’t know about the ground but it is getting zero current. I spliced the connector further into the harness and still no current. The new connector, one end broke off, worked and I was able to drive the car home (20 miles). But it hasn’t started since. You can see copper in the branch and I spliced past that but there’s no life to that connector anymore.
 
kmead said:
Your car seems to have had a hard life at some point in the past.

Is it getting zero current or is it lacking a ground? Sorry not meaning to be pedantic, the two go hand in hand.
Click to expand...
kmead said:
Your car seems to have had a hard life at some point in the past.

Is it getting zero current or is it lacking a ground? Sorry not meaning to be pedantic, the two go hand in hand.
Click to expand...
Zero current. Not sure about the ground. The connector broke off. Spliced a new one in and it drove fine for 20 miles. It got me home and died in the drive way. Couldn’t start it the next time or since. I looked deeper into the branch and saw copper. The wiring was frail and the insulation cracked. Spliced in a little further up the harness and still no current. ;-(
 
LoveX1/9s said:
Zero current. Not sure about the ground. The connector broke off. Spliced a new one in and it drove fine for 20 miles. It got me home and died in the drive way. Couldn’t start it the next time or since. I looked deeper into the branch and saw copper. The wiring was frail and the insulation cracked. Spliced in a little further up the harness and still no current. ;-(
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Is there current at the FI ECU computer?
 
Just curious, why would you be having so much wire insulation coming off? Did the car have an engine fire?
 
@LoveX1/9s, If you are still looking for a complete late model X1/9 harness WITH the fuse box, clean and in A1 shape, I have 2 of them available. The fuse box (or block) contains "indicator fuses" (lights up if the fuse blows) includes all relays and timers. The Harness is configured for AC and power windows. I should likely post this in FS&W but I am responding directly to your post. Price is $1K firm. These are very hard to find and require careful removal from an X that hasn't been ravaged by mice, accidents, previous owners, etc. Let me know if interested. Photos available upon request.
 
bbrown said:
@LoveX1/9s, If you are still looking for a complete late model X1/9 harness WITH the fuse box, clean and in A1 shape, I have 2 of them available. The fuse box (or block) contains "indicator fuses" (lights up if the fuse blows) includes all relays and timers. The Harness is configured for AC and power windows. I should likely post this in FS&W but I am responding directly to your post. Price is $1K firm. These are very hard to find and require careful removal from an X that hasn't been ravaged by mice, accidents, previous owners, etc. Let me know if interested. Photos available upon request.
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Hi Bob,

It’s kind of you to give me the first shot. I’ve scaled it back a bit as I get used to testing etc. Although it would be easier to swap in one that works, I’m looking for something new and in addition, a complete rewire is beyond me at this point. I think if anything, I would start smaller like the engine harness. I’m not ready to make one but I found a guy who can.

Until then, I’m getting a ECT 3000 and armed with the mechanics manual, that will get me by. I really appreciate you giving me first shot though.
 
So I’m learning how to use a test light and a multi meter. Next purchase is a ECT 3000 which will find breaks and shorts. They also make a powered probe that will come in handy someday.

I’m getting the real connector from bayless today because I feel like I should and a few nice to haves because I haven’t given up on this car yet. Truth be told, I could have a new car and would be equally lost if I had to fix it. Basically, I’m suffering from how am I going to self apprentice as a Mechanic but for what I’ve done, I think I’ve done ok and I thank everyone for the help.

Some may think the car is totally trashed but it’s not and I’m learning a lot.

So my Thermo Start switch tested good but the connector isn’t getting current. When one side of the Thermo switch connector broke off, the car acted like it does now - so if the aftermarket connector works and it did because I drove the car home, I suspect a break in the harness.

I’m going to test the cold start injector today and I don’t expect it to spray. Yes, I’ll use a jar. That may not be getting current either or it went bad. Of course, I’ll cut the harness to find the break it has to be somewhere. But not until I have all the tools to make it easier. Stay tuned.
 
From my archives ...
Making one would be a huge job. I wouldn't want to do it, not from scratch anyway.

Pegboard Late Mdl Harness.jpg
 
Steve Thomas said:
Easier than patching or fault finding one as far as I am concerned :) I won't be cloning the genuine article but will clone functionality and interfaces.

I reckon that pic will be helpful to many people BTW.
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When it’s laid out that way, it almost looks doable.
 
LoveX1/9s said:
Anyone know if 5.8 volts is good for the Cold Start Injector? I was expecting 12V
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Stupid question, regarding the engine ground wire.

Did you remove, clean both ends, the attachment points at each end and reinstall the engine ground wire?
 
kmead said:
Stupid question, regarding the engine ground wire.

Did you remove, clean both ends, the attachment points at each end and reinstall the engine ground wire?
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:-( I did not but I'm getting 12.54V on the battery, the body and the engine. I charged the battery the other day and it's down. It's about 3 years old so I'll replace it. The short/break tester arrives today or tomorrow so I hope to fix more and eventually the rest of electrical issues. That said, I haven't blown a fuse in years but I do see copper on both sides of the connectors. And when I spliced in one connector to get me home, I saw this when I went to solder the connector in... That’s why I thought if I could get a new engine harness in an even an entire harness with new wires that would make life easier. I did clean the connector though. I didn't test for spray because that part is impossible to find and I thought if I break it, I'm sunk.
 

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If you ever decide to do a complete harness replacement with a known good harness, it's not a difficult job per se' but you need to dedicate an entire weekend to do it right. It's not something you want to rush. I've done 3 complete replacements to date and they've all come out great. All 3 were "conversions", or going from the old harness to the late model harness. Not sure what year you've got but if it's an 84 or newer, it will be easier in that you don't have to change any dash and console switches.

The X1/9 harness comes in 3 sections; front, console and rear. Doing a section at a time un-complicates it a lot.
All 3 sections un-plug separately from the fuse block using uniquely keyed connectors, but I leave them attached right from the start because it's a bear to try and fit them all in properly once the wires have been placed/routed.
Do note that the car's interior, carpets, seats, dash, etc must all be removed in order to do it right.
I'm happy to help if you decide to do it.
 
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